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Why Luxury Bans Backfire — The Essays of Montaigne

The Essays of Montaigne - Why Luxury Bans Backfire

Michel de Montaigne

The Essays of Montaigne

Why Luxury Bans Backfire

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Analysis by the Wide Reads editorial team·Reviewed against the source text·Updated December 16, 2025

Summary

Why Luxury Bans Backfire

The Essays of Montaigne by Michel de Montaigne

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Montaigne says sumptuary laws backfire: forbidding silk and gold to common people only makes those things more coveted. The true way is contempt for luxury, not prohibition that turns velvet into a prince's privilege.

Custom moves fast. After court mourning cloth displaced silk, silk fell to physicians and looked citizenly within a year; armies suddenly prized greasy linen while finery looked vulgar. If kings dropped extravagant dress, the kingdom would follow in a month without edicts.

Zeleucus shamed excess by restricting jewels and embroidered robes to prostitutes and drunk women, using dishonour instead of police. Montaigne adds that court fashion corrupts manners: foolish breeches, long hair, and empty ceremony signal a sick whole, and Plato feared constant novelty in dress and dance because it despises old institutions.

In this chapter: Terms Characters Key Quotes Themes Modern Story

Why This Matters

Connect literature to life

Skill: Reading Ban-Backfire Psychology

Making something exclusive often increases desire instead of killing it. Montaigne says to enact that only princes may wear velvet is to set everyone more agog to wear it. Before you forbid a status symbol, ask whether you are advertising it as forbidden fruit.

Coming Up in Chapter 44

After laws of cloth and gold, Montaigne tests inner composure. Alexander will sleep through the morning before Darius, and Cato will snore while Rome waits on his life.

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Chapter 43

Why Luxury Bans Backfire

OF SUMPTUARY LAWS The way by which our laws attempt to regulate idle and vain expenses in meat and clothes, seems to be quite contrary to the end designed. The true way would be to beget in men a contempt of silks and gold, as vain, frivolous, and useless; whereas we augment to them the honours, and enhance the value of such things, which, sure, is a very improper way to create a disgust. For to enact that none but princes shall eat turbot, shall wear velvet or gold lace, and interdict these things to the people, what is it…

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Key Quotes & Analysis

"The true way would be to beget in men a contempt of silks and gold, as vain, frivolous, and useless; whereas we augment to them the honours, and enhance the value of such things, which, sure, is a very improper way to create a disgust"

— Montaigne

Context: Laws backfire

Attitude beats ban.

In Today's Words:

Montaigne says the true way is to beget contempt of silks and gold as vain, whereas our laws enhance their honour and value, a very improper way to create disgust. Banning luxury advertises it. If you want less showing off, make the show look ridiculous, not forbidden.

"none but princes shall eat turbot, shall wear velvet or gold lace, and interdict these things to the people, what is it but to bring them into a greater esteem, and to set every one more agog to eat and wear them"

— Montaigne

Context: Forbidden finery

Privilege breeds craving.

In Today's Words:

Montaigne asks what it means to enact that none but princes shall eat turbot or wear velvet except to bring them into greater esteem and set everyone more agog to eat and wear them. Exclusion signals value. Watch how often your rules tell people exactly what to desire.

"Zeleucus by the like invention reclaimed the corrupted manners of the Locrians."

— Montaigne

Context: Locrian luxury laws

Shame as tool.

In Today's Words:

Montaigne says Zeleucus reclaimed corrupted manners of the Locrians by restricting jewels and embroidered robes to prostitutes and similar exceptions, diverting citizens through dishonour rather than force. Social stigma can work where prohibition fails. Sometimes the clever move is to make the excess look low-status, not illegal.

"no one knows their beginning, or that there ever was any other."

— Montaigne

Context: Plato on changing customs

Novelty erodes law.

In Today's Words:

Montaigne ends that no laws keep true credit unless time has made their origin unknown, while Plato feared young men changing habits and dances because manners corrupt when novelty is applauded. Constant fashion churn signals deeper disorder. When everything must be new, ask what stability you are quietly throwing away.

Thematic Threads

Class

In This Chapter

Montaigne shows how sumptuary laws meant to preserve class distinctions actually blur them by making luxury items symbols of rebellion and aspiration

Development

Building on earlier discussions of social hierarchy, now examining how class boundaries are enforced and undermined

In Your Life:

You might recognize this when designer knockoffs become popular specifically because the originals are 'only for rich people.'

Social Expectations

In This Chapter

The chapter reveals how social norms are more effectively shaped by influence and example than by rules and punishment

Development

Expanding from personal behavior expectations to societal norm-setting mechanisms

In Your Life:

You see this when peer pressure works better than official policies at your workplace or in your family.

Identity

In This Chapter

Montaigne explores how people use forbidden objects and behaviors to signal their identity and aspirations

Development

Deepening the theme of how external markers shape internal sense of self

In Your Life:

You might notice this when you want something more because it represents who you wish you could be.

Human Relationships

In This Chapter

The essay examines the relationship between authority and subjects, showing how control attempts can backfire and damage trust

Development

Extending relationship dynamics beyond personal bonds to include power structures

In Your Life:

You experience this when someone tries to control your choices and it makes you want to resist them even more.

Personal Growth

In This Chapter

Montaigne suggests that understanding human psychology leads to more effective influence and better outcomes

Development

Continuing the theme of self-knowledge as a tool for navigating the world more skillfully

In Your Life:

You grow when you learn to influence through example and curiosity rather than commands and criticism.

You now have the context. Time to form your own thoughts.

Discussion Questions

This is not a test. Five prompts guide you through the chapter, from how it opens to how it closes, so you notice context and rhythm rather than facts to memorize. Sit with each question in your own words. When you see "One way to read it," treat it as a starting point, not the only answer.

  1. 1

    What does Montaigne say happens when laws ban luxury items like silk and gold from common people?

    ▶One way to read it

    He argues these bans backfire by making luxury items more desirable and prestigious, like putting a 'Do Not Touch' sign on something everyone suddenly wants.

    analysis • surface
  2. 2

    Why did Zeleucus's law allowing only prostitutes and entertainers to wear gold jewelry work so effectively?

    ▶One way to read it

    By associating luxury with disreputable people, he made these items social poison for anyone wanting to maintain respectability in society.

    analysis • medium
  3. 3

    Where do you see Montaigne's luxury paradox playing out in today's fashion or technology trends?

    ▶One way to read it

    When celebrities or influencers abandon certain brands or styles, those items often lose appeal. Exclusive drops or limited releases create artificial scarcity that drives demand.

    application • medium
  4. 4

    If you wanted to reduce wasteful spending in your community, how would you apply Montaigne's leadership approach?

    ▶One way to read it

    Focus on influential people modeling simpler choices rather than rules. If respected leaders drive modest cars or wear basic clothes, others follow naturally without resentment.

    application • deep
  5. 5

    What does Montaigne's observation about cloth becoming fashionable overnight reveal about how we form our values?

    ▶One way to read it

    We're deeply influenced by social signals and authority figures. Our preferences often reflect what we think will gain us status rather than genuine personal taste.

    reflection • deep

Critical Thinking Exercise

10 minutes

Flip the Script: From Prohibition to Influence

Think of a current situation where someone is trying to control behavior through rules, restrictions, or threats (at work, home, or in your community). Write down what they're trying to prevent and why it's not working. Then redesign the approach using influence instead of prohibition—how could they make the desired behavior look appealing or high-status?

Consider:

  • •What makes the forbidden behavior attractive to people right now?
  • •Who do the rule-breakers look up to or want to impress?
  • •How could you make following the rules feel like joining the 'cool crowd' instead of giving up freedom?

Journaling Prompt

Write about a time when someone tried to control your behavior through rules or threats. How did it make you feel? Now write about a time when someone influenced you to change by making you want to change. What was the difference in how you responded?

Coming Up Next...

Chapter 44: Sleep as a Measure of Character

After laws of cloth and gold, Montaigne tests inner composure. Alexander will sleep through the morning before Darius, and Cato will snore while Rome waits on his life.

Continue to Chapter 44
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True Worth Beyond Status and Wealth
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Sleep as a Measure of Character
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Study guides, teaching tools, themes, and the full library.More ways to read The Essays of Montaigne: study guides, teaching tools, and the wider library.

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What this chapter teaches

Theme analyses that draw on this chapter and apply it to modern life.

  • Testing Experience Against TheoryMontaigne on custom, fashion, medicine, and lived proof. Eight essays on trusting what you see when official wisdom fails your actual situation.

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